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Posted: Wed 22:08, 28 Aug 2013 Post subject: luxury didn't blend well-spun3 |
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luxury didn't blend well,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]
Just like Homer Simpson once yelled "be funnier!" at his TV set, shoppers checked out the holiday season's Target + Neiman Marcus collection and wished it were cooler --and cheaper.
Target had high desires the high-profile collection to ignite early December receipts,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but sales fizzled instead inside a ho-hum holiday season. That's one reason the Minneapolis-based retailer last week reported flat sales for December.
Target forgot "expect more, pay less" using the collection, said Amy Koo, an analyst with Kantar Retail consulting near Boston. Many items seemed to be too high-priced, and shoppers who have been focused on getting a good deal weren't seeing the worthiness, she said.
"Folks were looking for a present to talk about -- a shawl, a shirt or perhaps a dress -- but they were too costly," she said. "Target needs to re-evaluate the cost point and also the quality of the product."
Koo calls the collection a "miss" for Target, but the retailer isn't giving up on collaborations with designers,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Target spokesman Joshua Thomas said. It features a number of programs planned for 2013, including a Prabal Gurung collection that will debut Feb. 10.
But working with another retailer won't necessarily be in the mix. "We still redesign the formula with every collaboration," Thomas said. "Not everything works. Each program and model differs."
Target hoped that its collaboration with Neiman Marcus and 24 designers would duplicate the selling frenzy generated by its Missoni collection this year, when eager shoppers crashed the retailer's website.
Initial indications were promising once the collection debuted on Dec. 1. Online traffic for the collection about the first day was comparable to Black Friday numbers. "Millions of guests shopped this collection," Thomas said.
As the days and weeks went on, however,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], curious customers shopped the collection, but few were buying it. The entire line was discounted 50 percent on Dec. 20 and 70 percent on Jan. 1, prompting analysts and shoppers to wonder what went down.
Ava Beilke of St. Louis Park said the line initially interested her,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but she was put off by a variety that seemed too frivolous (a flask) or too costly ($50 for a picture frame) at any given time when individuals were spending conservatively.
"The things seemed unnecessary," she said. "Maybe they have to collaborate with more-affordable designers like Coach," said the 23-year-old social networking specialist.
One change which was designed for the Neiman Marcus collection might have been part of the problem. After the Missoni frenzy, where early bird shoppers filled their carts to create a profit re-selling on eBay, shoppers were limited to five per item within the Target + Neiman collection. Inventory was also doubled.
Beilke felt that over stock was one more reason the collection lost its charm. "I saw nearly 80 of the same party dress displayed," she said. "Designer clothing should really be unique, not mass-produced. I don't want to see myself many times over basically wear that dress to some special occasion,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," she said.
That's unlikely to happen, for now at least, judging by the large amounts of party dresses by Robert Rodriguez and Lela Rose still languishing on the racks at $30 each.
Although shoppers gave the gathering a big "meh" at regular price, interest grew following the line was discounted. Brent Meyers, director of the DesignWorks program at Minneapolis College of Art and Design,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], thinks customers purchasing the items at 50 or 70 percent off were getting great deals. "Maybe the average Target customer doesn't know or doesn't care about quality, but most from the pieces were a deal even at regular price," he said.
The beading on the girls' $100 dress by Marchesa, the worsted wool men's blazer by Thom Browne for $150 and the Altuzarra tray for $80 had exceptional detail, Meyers said,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but Target never explained the quality like Neiman Marcus does.
As for Neiman Marcus' assessment from the partnership, the posh retailer isn't commenting about the collection until its second-quarter earnings are released in late February, said Ginger Reeder,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], vice-president of corporate communications.
But Pam Danziger of Unity Marketing in Pennsylvania thinks Neiman's customers were more open to this program than Target's. "It featured designer brands that were recognized and familiar towards the Neiman Marcus customer at prices which were less than typical NM products," she said.
Danziger believes that Neiman's had lower expectations for that program, that was focused more about the prospective mass-market customer.
As the collection didn't excite Target shoppers,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Meyers said the timing might just have been off.
Several years ago, Target couldn't give away items from Zac Posen or Orla Kiely, he explained. Now those things can sell for much more on eBay. "Kiely's melamine bowl looking for $3 sold for $120 on eBay.
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