Guardians of Grail

cheapbag214s · Posted: Sun 4:22, 25 Aug 2013 Post subject: In a world of her own

In a world of her own
She slides into a seat and can't decide what to order. "I'll have a miii-lkshake," she says,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], half-singing the request. There are no shakes on the menu. "I want one!" she says, in a mock-petulant voice. "Hot chocolate with regular milk, please."
Stella McCartney was crowned Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards. Are such events good fun? "Not really. I don't like drawing much attention to myself. Standing up and giving a speech is, like, ugh.
"Having said that,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the award is a big deal for me. I was born and bred in this country and people come from all round the world to work with me here in London. I didn't like standing up too much, but Vivienne Westwood's Outstanding Achievement speech was hilarious. She's so cool.'
Stella seems pretty cool herself. She may be known by some in the world of fashion as 'Stella Steel', she may have a reputation for being stroppy,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but today -- once it's been established that talking about her father's divorce is off-limits -- she is charming, refreshingly low-key and immensely likeable. Perhaps, after years of being accused of using her father's name to get places (what was she supposed to do, work under a pseudonym?), she has finally, at 36, become her own woman.
She will always be a McCartney -- if only because she looks as much like her father as she does her late mother,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Linda -- but perhaps it is Paul who will now be increasingly known as 'Stella's dad'. She smiles at this. "Dad always jokes about that actually. It's cute."
In October 2007, Stella McCartney Ltd posted its first profit, and a statement from its parent company, the Gucci Group,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], said that sales in the London shop alone had increased by 50pc in 12 months.
Building a fashion empire from scratch is tough enough, but Stella seems to enjoy putting pressure on herself; indeed, she seems to thrive on it. She often talks of being neither 100pc mother nor 100pc worker, but with an expanding family and a flourishing business to run, it's hard to avoid the notion of Stella as supermum.
Since launching her own fashion house in 2001 -- after a four-year stint as the creative director of Chloé in Paris -- Stella now has three flagship stores (in London, New York and Los Angeles) and collections that range from women's ready-to-wear to a perfume, an organic skincare range,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], an Adidas collaboration and,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], most recently, a new lingerie collection. She talks of sexy, comfortable and well-fitting underwear that can still be chucked in the washing machine. The first collection features her favoured soft pink, cream,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], blue and grey.
Famously,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], every contract she signs insists on a ban on leather and fur -- and the greener the better. Suggest that she's tough, however,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and Stella scowls. "Look, the thing with me is that people know what they're getting. I remember when Tom Ford asked me to do Gucci. He said he was prepared to give up fur for me. Which I thought was quite amazing. I said, 'But Tom, you do know that I don't do leather as well?' He turned pale. He was like, 'No! We can't not do leather'.
"Life's too short to worry about everything on an ethical level,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but sometimes . well, when I was with Chloé I wouldn't let them do leather shoes or bags. And when I left they did great business."
She is the first to admit she's not perfect when it comes to leather and fur: she used to wear vintage leather shoes, although no longer finds those acceptable these days. Last year,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Stella found the media questioning the purity of her ethics when it was revealed that Adidas continues to use kangaroo skin to make football boots.
"First of all, it's worth pointing out that I don't discriminate between kangaroos, lambs and cows; it's not right to kill any animal for fashion. Second, I don't understand how people think I can work in this industry and not come into contact with companies who use leather or fur. I'm a realist; I can only try to infiltrate from within.
"My achievement in the industry is that everyone knows I won't work with leather and fur, and I can only hope that some designers or fashion houses now think twice about animal by-products."
It comes as no surprise that one of Stella's enduring influences is her mother Linda, an American photographer who died of breast cancer in 1998. There's an unexpected,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], intimate moment when we talk about losing a parent. "You really don't get over it, do you? But they wouldn't want us to be sad." A huge sigh. "My kids would've loved my mum so much. Don't let me go there: I'm far too hormonal."
She blinks furiously. What about your mum as fashion icon? "Yeah, my mum's a huge influence. It's not really about what she wore, more about who she was as a person and what she stood for. How she conducted or expressed herself. My mum got a lot of flak for the way she dressed: no make-up, odd argyle socks, hair she cut herself. Can you imagine Victoria Beckham doing that now?"
Linda must have been deeply confident to ignore the constant scorn. "She was very happy with herself. She didn't try to be somebody she wasn't. She was just comfortable in her own skin, which is what I find inspiring when it comes to designing women's clothes.
"Unusually, I don't have a muse in mind when I work; I try to design clothes that are inspirational, aspirational and exciting. I also design clothes that stick around -- I still wear things that I made when I left college, mixed up with things I've made recently. I don't expect anyone to wear Stella McCartney head-to-toe . " She looks down at her black coat,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], dress and footless tights. "Actually, I'm wearing all my own clothes,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but I'm probably the only one."
After a comprehensive school education in Sussex, Stella studied fashion at Central St Martins College of Art Design. Inspired by Cinderella,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Annie Get Your Gun and Doris Day, the 'hippie tomboy' made her first outfit at 12 but, still, not many students were in a position to talk Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell into modelling for free at their graduation show.
Stella learned the hard way that the super-competitive and occasionally nasty fashion world thought this was simply showing off. "Do I really need to regret that? Had I known the response, I probably wouldn't have bothered. Everyone thought I was a jerk. It's 12 years ago now and I don't regret it."
Visibly agitated by an issue that is a large part of her life -- she is steeped in celebrity culture, whether she is comfortable with it or not; after all, she designed Madonna's wedding dress,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and her own wedding to Alasdhair Willis, the CEO of interior design company Established Sons, in 2003 included Chrissie Hynde and Chris Martin among many guests -- Stella wriggles about on the bench.
"It's weird being in my position. I stop myself from doing so many things. I don't get Madonna to sing at my fashion shows. I don't get my dad to turn up and go 'la la la, yesterday'. I stop myself. I have to say 'No, that's not chic'."
At least,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I suggest,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], she seems to have this huge work ethic based, in part, on wanting to prove herself. "Oh yeah. When I was younger, I was endlessly saying to myself: [she lowers her voice] 'I'm going to prove to all of you that I can do this.' I'm less like that now. I'm British Designer of the Year, don't you know!"
As the collections have got better and better -- spring/summer 2008 is her best yet -- so Stella has narrowed her focus increasingly on work and family. Her days as a hip socialite are, it seems, over. For now, at least. She has three kids under the age of three. Miller Alasdhair James is two, Bailey Linda Olwyn is one and her third child, a son called Beckett Robert Lee was born on January 8.
"I can't think of the last time I had a drink. Party girl has gone."
As we leave the deli, Stella talks about her husband as though still in the first flush of love. She says how lucky she is that their children can visit her at work. In an ideal world, she would bring them up as she was brought up, in the country, at the local comp,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], as little fuss as possible.
She pulls her Stella McCartney coat tight. "All I can do is be a nice person and a good parent. Try and be normal." She laughs at herself, climbs into the hybrid taxi and, with a huge grin, is whisked off home."
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