Guardians of Grail

cheapbag214s · Posted: Mon 18:17, 02 Sep 2013 Post subject: Cheap Parisian eats-spun2

Cheap Parisian eats,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]
Thus was born my resolution for eating in Paris,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]. No more snarking and being snarked-at in fancy joints whose menus I can't decipher and where the staff regard you just like you were the three-eyed love-child of Gollum and Nicolas Sarkozy.
Nowadays, we eat about the down-low at nosh-and-dash kiosks or at among the city's many farmers' markets or by deking into a patisserie and grabbing some mid-afternoon treat to devour once we wend our way toward Berthillon's (29-31 Rue Saint-Louis, near Notre Dame) for a scoop of the famous ice cream.
On the fast fall trip, staying just off trendy Boulevard St. Germain at the existentially spartan Hotel la Louisiane (yes, Sartre lived here), we rarely dropped more than 25 euros (about C$35) on one meal and frequently quite less.
It's not that people didn't spring for that occasional feast, but it was confined to bistro-style fare that never topped out at a lot more than 80 euros (about C$110), wine included.
Here, then, a 24-hour day of cheap, brilliant eating in Paris:
Skedaddle from the hotel to Paul, which is to France what Tim Hortons would be to Canada -- a ubiquitous chain of caf where the croissants are presented and baked on site and boast just the right ratio of flakiness to chewiness. The yogurt-to-go is available in a keepsake-worthy, ebony-glazed, terracotta pot emblazoned using the Paul logo.
You cannot fail with coffee any place in France, but Paul's velvety caf cremes (what we should like to call caf au lait) actually enhance the nation's standard.
Petit dejeuner for two: 12 euros (about C$17).
Since it's Sunday, we hit the Marche Biologique, the once-a-week organic farmers market stretching on the Boulevard Raspail south from Rue Cherche Midi to Rue de Rennes.
At one end from the strip, Normandy apple farmer Michel Beucher sells his cider and Calvados (brandy) while his wife and daughter cook crepes alongside. Our mid-morning snack is really a savoury Gruy galette (cheese cake) and for dessert a sweet crepe doused in Calvados and dusted with sugar. Total market purchases, not counting the souvenir bottle of Calvados: 14 euros (C$20).
Some Paris caf like the above historic worthies,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Caf de Flore and Deux Magots, really are a tad too main track and clamorous to offer a leisurely stakeout of Paris street life. For our money, the best cafe in Paris is Rostand (6 Place Edmond Rostand). It's unhurried and friendly service, great food and a panoramic look at Jardin du Luxembourg next door.
If you're there around midday try the house specialty, a really outstanding grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], then watch the entire of Paris wander by. Lunch: 22 euros (C$30).
Bushed from 6 hours of eating and sightseeing I hobble to our hotel, while my tireless wife heads further afield. An hour or so later she's during the room together with her bounty -- crinkly bags of fresh macarons from three of the top patisseries in Paris -- Laduree, Gerard Mulot and Pierre Herme. No official consensus,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], however the cream-filled meringue cookies induce a short sugar high, followed by a late-afternoon power nap.
Early dinner. By French standards, it's considered appalling to consume before 9,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but it ensures a coveted outdoor table and leaves the long evening hours to walk off your meal. We go for Da Rosa (62 Rue de Seine), a foodie destination where chefs go to buy their jamon (think Spanish prosciutto). Da Rosa has a well-stocked wine cellar and is equally famous because of its risottos and pastas.
We drink wine and watch the passing show from our table under Da Rosa's unique window motif -- a hair-covered hog leg clamped inside a metal stand, its trotter accusingly pointed out at patio diners. Dinner with wine: 65 euros (C$90).
Within spitting distance of the late-night diners at Deux Magots,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], we stop to grab a nightcap, a Grand Marnier crepe at the kiosk on the northeast corner of Bonaparte and St. Germain. My wife finds it thrilling to order booze on the street (if just in pancake-form). Crepe-stand crepes: unquestionably Paris's best food bargain at five euros (C$7).
Strolling back to the hotel,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], we plan tomorrow's food odyssey, including our lunch trip to the Marais, the Jewish quarter turned trendy shopping district. There,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the battle between L'As du Fallafel and King Falafel Paris (doors away from each other on Rue des Rosiers) rages on. At L'As du Fallafel,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], only five euros gets you among the messiest, best falafels in the world, dominated by caramelized eggplant, crispy chickpea fritters, a crunchy slaw and a splotch of tahini sauce. Best eaten directly on the street, with napkins in the ready.
-- PIERRE HERME: 72 Rue Bonaparte. Herme, the great Paris pastry chef, was awarded the Legion of Honour by Jacques Chirac, which tells you all you need to know of the French mania for sweets. Lineups outside Herme's flagship boutique routinely stretch down the street and round the corner, a catholic mix of proles, toffs, students and tourists. No raisin buns or dowdy brioche here, just the most exquisite couture pastries in the world.
-- MERCI: 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais. Metro: St. Set discreetly back of the classic Paris courtyard, this eclectic Haut Marais retail spot offers a hipster's panoply of furniture, clothing, fragrance and housewares, spread three tastefully-appointed floors. Funded through the those who own the upscale French children's wear company Bonpoint, Merci is a not-for-profit, with proceeds going to youth charities in Madagascar.
The store's canteen sells great tartine (open-faced sandwiches) and pastries, a legitimate spot to eat lunch or to just rev up before another round of shopping.
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